Finally resolved the terrible hesitation on acceleration. New diaphragms in carb and adjusting carb mixture did not make it better, although turning mixture more lean did make it worse. Installed all new plug wires and distributor cap, no change. Installed new points, condenser, and rotor and runs great! Looking at old points they were not in very good shape, so we suspect this is the root cause. More fine tuning to be done, but it's very driveable now.
Found it interesting that the in line spark tester showed intermittent spark on #1 cylinder with old points. Continued same with new plug wires and cap. But now has a nice even spark cadence with new points. Also had difficulty getting timing light to fire with old points, but now fires fine with new points. Interesting observations to keep in mind for diagnosis challenges.
Friday, May 12, 2017
Wednesday, May 3, 2017
Pretty Dash
We fixed the last remaining under dash electrical issue - no turn signals. As suspected, the broken hazard warning switch did not allow voltage to continue on to the turn signal circuit. We elected not to replace the hazard switch (costs $100) and instead jumper around it to make turn signals work. After the jumper was installed the turn signals worked fine. Did not seem worth $100 for the extremely rare occasions when you need hazard flashers.
The wooden dash that we ordered from a guy in Michigan who makes them was then installed. This went pretty well but is time consuming - every gauge and switch in the dash must be removed and reinstalled. And access to those gauges and the under dash wiring becomes more difficult after this point. We think it turned out pretty well:
All gauges and their lights for night driving work. To keep costs down we also elected not to replace the missing rheostat for dimming the interior lights (another expensive item) - none of us have ever dimmed these lights because they are too bright at night. Instead we just let them burn at full voltage. This is the knob in the middle of the gauges mid dash, it's there but is not functional.
The wooden dash that we ordered from a guy in Michigan who makes them was then installed. This went pretty well but is time consuming - every gauge and switch in the dash must be removed and reinstalled. And access to those gauges and the under dash wiring becomes more difficult after this point. We think it turned out pretty well:
All gauges and their lights for night driving work. To keep costs down we also elected not to replace the missing rheostat for dimming the interior lights (another expensive item) - none of us have ever dimmed these lights because they are too bright at night. Instead we just let them burn at full voltage. This is the knob in the middle of the gauges mid dash, it's there but is not functional.
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